A nearly four hour train ride along the Mediterranean Sea separates Valencia from Barcelona and this journey is a flash of coast line on one side and sandy orchard groves on the other. This scenic train journey ends at València Joaquín Sorolla station in the heart of the city where you can either continue to travel on their small metro network or you can catch a curbside taxi. The metro didn’t run close to our Westin hotel, so we opted for the taxi.

The taxi driver spoke little English but he was jolly and was able to share certain characteristics about the city as we passed them. Turns out, the river that ran through the city of Valencia caused a deadly flood in the late 1950s, so the town decided to divert the river and allow the river basin to dry up. Today, that river basin has been converted into a huge park which meanders through the city and is utilized by residents as a place to walk their dogs, exercise, and play. It truly is an amazing thing that clearly created an active culture within the city. Large paved bike paths, rows of planted trees, park equipment, and full-size soccer fields are uninterrupted as all of the roadways cross high above the sunken park, using the bridges that used to cross the river.  

In addition to a gorgeous park, the city of Valencia also invested in the creation of The City of Arts and Science, a network of artistically designed public complexes that protrude from the dried up river bed. No other building, that I could see, has been allowed to be built in the river bed. No doubt these buildings were designed to bring tourism, art, and recreation to the area. These beautifully designed buildings include a Planetarium that looks like an eye, a Museum of Science that looks like the skeleton of a whale, an Opera House and Performing Arts Center that resembles a fish, and a Covered Plaza that looks like the mouth of a whale breaching the surface. Each one is a thrill to look at but seeing all of them grouped in a single area is even better. It feels modern and engaging, you can feel each structure has a story to tell.

When visiting the City of Arts and Science wearing your comfortable shoes is a necessity. The size of each building and the pools and landscaping that surround each are immense and should not be underestimated. Plus, there are bonus spaces sprinkled around the complex such as themed playgrounds and jumbo typography that may make you detour.

We visited on a Monday and the entire area was pretty vacant giving us unobstructed pictures, a relaxed pace, and open views. And the views were the primary reason for our visit, in fact we only checked out the inside of one building, the Science Museum. Many people choose to experience the Aquarium or Planetarium but if you are there solely for the architecture, you may want to consider a tour. We observed a few groups of Bike and Segway tours while dawdling around the City of Arts and Science and they looked like a great way to learn about the structures in general. Plus, you won’t have to walk!

If you don’t go the tour route, I still recommend renting a bike. The buildings are so large and the park is so long that utilizing a bike is simply the best way to get around. It cost 10 euros, plus a 50 euro deposit, to rent a cute bike with a basket for the day. Best investment ever. We not only rode bike around the City of Arts and Science and through the park but we also rode down to the beach.

The beach is huge with depth, for layers of beach activities, and length, reaching so far into the distance it disappeared into a haze. Apart from the size of the beach and the fact that tops are optional, there isn’t much to write home about. The Mediterranean Sea is cold, the waves are not like ocean waves and, when we were there, a layer of seaweed coated the shores. The boardwalk behind the beach offers your typical beachside bar and dining experience and I recommend it as a lunch stop before getting back on your bike and heading back to the park. Bike lanes are prominent throughout the city but I would avoid biking in the downtown areas as the streets are shorter, narrower, and much more crowded.

Valencia turned out to be a great city to discover featuring active people, forward-thinking city planning, and a naturally beautiful coastal location. The City of Arts and Science is just an extra jewel in the crown with its modern amenities, artistic views, and promise of discovery. 

Complete your trip to Spain using this 12 day itinerary to Spain and Portugal for inspiration.

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