Conquering Ol Doinyo Lengai: An Unforgettable All-Night Hike

Ol Doinyo Lengai, also known as the Mountain of God, is a unique challenge for any die-hard hiker and was by far the most physically demanding during our 11-Day Tanzania Adventure Safari Itinerary. Here’s a glimpse into my experience hiking this active volcano in Tanzania, along with some crucial insights I wish I’d known beforehand.

Summiting Ol Doinyo Lengai is by far the most remote hike I have ever done and is also the most dangerous hike I have completed. I was particularly drawn to this hike because of it’s off-the-tourist track location and, sure enough, we were the only people on the volcano that night. It takes a very special effort to get to and was the primary driver for us visiting the Lake Natron area.

Ol Doinyo Lengai Hike Stats

Length: 6.5 miles out & back
Starting elevation: 3,900 feet 
Elevation gain: 5,400 feet 
Time: 12 hours
Note: Local Massai guide required

Ready to Pull and All-Nighter?

Unlike most hikes, you start at midnight to reach the summit for sunrise and to avoid the scorching daytime heat. But here’s the twist: getting to the trailhead itself is a wild 4×4 off road adventure and, once you finally make it there, there’s no marked trail. You rely entirely on your local Maasai guides to navigate the challenging terrain. Our fantastic safari guides, who waited all night in the Land Cruiser at the trailhead, took care of everything for us. They arranged the Maasai guides through the camp we were staying at, and hooked us up with hiking sticks for a small fee, which proved to be a lifesaver on the loose scree. As we were a group of 3, they sent us with 2 guides in case someone couldn’t make it to the top making us a group of 5.

Hiking by Headlamp Under a Starry Sky

The ascent is an experience in itself. Headlamps illuminate the path as you conquer gradual inclines through tall grass which eventually lead to steep inclines across loose, wet earth. Our guides were two young men who climb the mountain about twice per week and they knew where to take strategic breaks in areas that sheltered us from the wind. Witnessing the dazzling night sky from the mountainside is truly awe-inspiring. However, things took a thrilling (and slightly terrifying) turn near the top.

Crawling up a near-vertical lava flow in complete darkness, with only the knowledge of your own trusty foot placement and balance separating you from a sheer drop, definitely gets the adrenaline pumping. Then, just before the summit, you’ll encounter a few vents spewing sulfurous steam, adding another unique element to the climb.

Killimanjaro Sunrise Summit Views and a Touch of Humor

Reaching the narrow rim at sunrise is an accomplishment in itself. The breathtaking peaks of Mount Kilimanjaro and Mount Meru silhouette in the sunrise glow, along with the lush green valley below make the entire climb worthwhile. And the volcanic crater itself is a sight to behold, even more massive and deep than any picture can capture. It was an epic spot to take in the day’s first light and the first time any of us had actually been able to see each other without blinding one another with our headlamps while climbing all night.

A dash of humor helped ease the tension at the rim. (Tension caused by the fact that we were all wondering how we were going to make it back down!) One of our guides delivered the rather blunt warning, “if you step there, you will be no more” to my sister Lisa, who had simply turned around on the narrow rim walk to locate the rest of the group. Then, when a rumbling bass drum sound filled the air and I stupidly asked “is that the volcano?” and Lisa’s witty response was, “No Angel, that’s the band”. I laughed hard.

Volcano Shadow Time Clock Descent

The thought of the descent, I’m happy to report, was worse than the actual descent. While challenging on steep sections, going pole pole (slowly slowly) and keeping our heads about us was the trick. Plus, with the daylight, it finally allowed us to see the true nature of the “trail” we had conquered in darkness and it was gorgeous. Remember, on the descent, the volcano’s shadow acts as a giant sundial – get down before you have to spend too much time in the scorching daytime heat. The safari vehicle waiting for us at the end was a very welcome site. We were all gassed and a little sore from falling or catching ourselves on the loose scree.

Note: We hiked in early February and we’re so glad we visited Tanzania during this time. The valley was hot but it was also a beautiful lush green!  

Lessons Learned and Essential Tips for Conquering Ol Doinyo Lengai

While the experience was incredible, here’s what I would recommend to anyone to know before considering this hike:

• Physical Fitness: This is no walk in the park. Be in excellent shape to tackle the demanding, straight up terrain. But also be prepared for mentally challenging sections, especially near the summit and in the dark.
• Pack Light, Stay Hydrated: Every ounce counts. Pack only essentials and plan on 2 liters of water per person. Headlamp, warm clothes, a hiking stick, and sturdy hiking boots are crucial.
• A Remote Adventure with Considerations: There’s no marked trail, so complete trust in your Maasai guides is essential. Our trek was facilitated by our safari company, who arranged our Maasai guides and these guides, while knowledgeable about the area, spoke limited English. It’s important to note that pay for the Maasai guides is often managed by their village based on the number of climbers. We also tipped them for their service, which included portering our packed breakfast and some water.
• Be aware of the remoteness of the area: Cell service is nonexistent, and our guides relied on old 2G phones. Medical evacuation is serious business here. Our safari company included Flying Doctors coverage, and we also had travel insurance though Allianz. Remember, you’re over 4 hours by rough, dirt road from Arusha, so a helicopter evacuation would likely be necessary in an emergency. And yes, we asked our guides and they confirmed they have had to call for helicopters before.

Ol Doinyo Lengai may be one of the most dangerous hikes I’ve done, but it’s also one of the most rewarding. The sense of accomplishment, the breathtaking views, the remoteness, and the unique experience of a night hike made it an unforgettable adventure.

Would you pull and all-nighter to attempt this hike? Do you still have questions about this hike? Please feel free to leave your questions and comments below.

Pictured below are the two “other” reasons travelers find themselves at the “end of the road” at Lake Natron. These reasons are to see the high alkaline lake which a record number of flamingos call home. The other is a short river hike up to a beautiful freshwater waterfall oasis.

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