Kayaking to the Benagil Cave

Algarve Coast, Portugal

10.06.2019

A trip to the Algarve region of Portugal simply isn’t complete without a visit to this coastline’s worst kept secret, the Benagil Cave. A simple Instagram search will reveal unfathomable images of the large domed cave containing a sandy beach with bright blue ocean waves crashing in from the two arched openings. And the best part about this cave, there’s a huge hole in the ceiling, so, instead of being dark and creepy, it’s bright, vibrant, and welcoming. 

The tricky part about visiting this marvelous site is getting to it because the cave is sea locked. You either have to swim, kayak, paddle board, or take a boat tour to get inside. We opted for the early morning Kayak tour so we could get out on the ocean before the waves got too crazy and have the ability to explore the cave on foot. Boat tours just pull into the cave entrance for a few minutes and passengers must stay on board. 

Our tour group was about twenty people, two per kayak, accompanied by two guides in single kayaks who spoke perfect english. We all met at the very small Benagil Beach where our guides gave us a brief demonstration before launching us out in our kayaks. If you have ever launched a kayak, you know how tricky it can be to successfully climb in, but our launch was perfect. We got in while still on shore and, when the wave rolled in, our guides pulled us out with the receding wave, I hardly even got wet!

Once all kayaks were successfully manned the colorful cluster of paddles struck out to across the bay toward Marihna Beach. Along the way our guides pointed out shapes in the rocks, like the man with the big nose and King Kong who protects beachgoers at Marinha Beach. They also told us stories about pirates who would use the Algarve coastline, which is peppered with sea caves, for hiding stolen treasure. They were good-natured guides who were serious enough that you could trust them out on the ocean, yet humorous enough to make the tour very enjoyable.

Marihna Beach was the furthest destination we paddled to then we slowly made our way back along the coast, going under the M arches rock, stopping to paddle in and out of a small, dark sea cave, and taking a peek at Lovers Beach. It felt as though we had already been out on the water for an hour when I started to feel a bit sea sick. I was ready to make landfall inside of Benagil Cave. 

Landing inside of Benagil Cave was as easy as the initial launch. Our guide was waiting to catch us and pull us to shore, and good thing too, because the waves were really starting to roll in. And there we stood, on the little beach inside of the Benagil Cave. Bright blue waves were rolling in through both sea cave entrances creating a melodic sound within the cave. Sunlight shone down to the beach through the top hole and was landing on a large rock near the center of the beach. Everybody was clambering atop the big rock for their postcard picture inside of the Benagil Cave, the sunlight blinding behind them. 

An element of the cave that is rarely talked about is the second cave in the back of the big cave. This little back cave is dark, yet large, and lined with a row of rocks. On top of this row of rocks, people have made little towers of stacked rocks to symbolize their visit to the cave. My sister and I added our own rocks to the little rock stacks, enjoying this quiet, dark gem inside the iconic cave. Then we still had time to stand on the beach and people watch. 

We watched boats, big and small, peek inside the right side cave. One of the larger boats blew its horn with a loud WHAAAAMP and we all looked around to see a man proposing to his lady at the tip of the boat. Everybody was cheering, she obviously said yes. We also watched a few couples, who were not part of a tour, try to get out of the cave on their paddle boards without hurting themselves. Little did they know they were trying to enter and exit the cave on the side where the waves were largest. I also rescued somebody’s sandals from the shore’s edge as a wave was about to sweep them away. A lady, speaking a language I could not identify, thanked me profusely. Finally, we stood back near our guides, and watched groups, couples, and solo travelers clamber atop the rock in the sunshine for their photo moment. 

Eventually it was time to leave the cave. Before we were launched back out to sea in our kayaks, I took another look around, trying to drink in the color, textures, and sounds of this spectacular spot on earth. The colorful group of kayaks headed back to Benagil beach, dodging a few more boats than we had to on the trip out.

The cave really isn’t far from Benagil Beach. In fact, the main parking lot is practically on top of the cave. When we got back to our car, we followed an unmarked footpath to see the hole in the top of the Benagil Cave. There was a wooden fence surrounding the hole but people were still acting foolishly. I would very much hate to be sitting inside of the magical cave when somebody fell through. But the view from atop the Benagil Cave is also fantastic with a steep cliff edge and no guard railings. Our Benegil Cave tour, inside and out, was thus complete, so we headed back to Carvoeiro. 

Theres more to see in Portugal, explore this 12 day itinerary to Spain and Portugal.